Aussie Information and Breed Standards
General Information
The Australian Shepherd, better known as the Aussie, and not to be confused with the Australian Blue Heeler, was developed to be a moderate sized, intelligent, all-purpose working dog. Capable of thinking on his own, the Aussie came to this country as a working hand for the Basque shepherds, helping move and manage their vast flocks of sheep. Known to many as "that little blue dog" the Aussie quickly gained a reputation as a dependable and versatile ranch dog. Many Aussies today still do the work they were bred for, and even those that have never seen stock have a strong herding instinct.
The typical Aussie is an exuberant and energetic companion. Being bred to work hard all day means that most Aussies are not content to be couch potatoes, although each individual has a different character and there are some Aussies who are more sedate and laid-back than others. In general, however, these are high-energy dogs who need a purpose in their lives--some kind of job to do whether it is bringing in the sheep at night, fetching your slippers, or even playing ball every day (yes, they will come to see that as their "job"). Aussie owners must be committed to giving their dog the time & attention it requires through play and training. As with any dog with undirected energy, the Aussie can turn toward destructive behavior to keep itself occupied, making up games that you might not appreciate!
The typical Aussie is an exuberant and energetic companion. Being bred to work hard all day means that most Aussies are not content to be couch potatoes, although each individual has a different character and there are some Aussies who are more sedate and laid-back than others. In general, however, these are high-energy dogs who need a purpose in their lives--some kind of job to do whether it is bringing in the sheep at night, fetching your slippers, or even playing ball every day (yes, they will come to see that as their "job"). Aussie owners must be committed to giving their dog the time & attention it requires through play and training. As with any dog with undirected energy, the Aussie can turn toward destructive behavior to keep itself occupied, making up games that you might not appreciate!
Questions to Ask of Breeders
When choosing an Aussie it is important to consider the dependability of the breeder and the ancestry of the dogs being offered for sale. It is advisable to visit the breeder so that you can meet & examine the dogs for sale as well as the sire & dam. Never purchase a puppy or other dog if they appear unhealthy. Bright eyes, a cold nose, shiny coat, and a natural curiosity are good signs of health. Buying from a reputable breeder cannot be overemphasized enough! Reliable breeders will not knowingly mislead prospective puppy buyers, and most will guarantee their dogs against inheritable defects. A reputable breeder will stand behind their pups and should provide a contract at the time of sale. Beware of Aussies found for sale in pet shops. Often these pups are the result of puppy mills and are taken from their mother's at too early of an age. It is against ASCA's Code of Ethics for breeders to sell pups in pet shops.
When you talk to a breeder, ask the following questions:
When you talk to a breeder, ask the following questions:
- Are both parents OFA certified?
OFA stands for Orthopedic Foundation for Animals. A "yes" to this question means the breeder cares enough & is knowledgeable enough about the breed & individuals to have had the animals hips evaluated before breeding. This procedure is meant to insure dogs with hip dysplasia are not used for breeding. They cannot be officially recorded until after the dog has reached the age of 2 years. The breeder will be able to tell you whether the hips were rated fair, good, or excellent and should provide you with a copy of their OFA certificate. If they have a rating of fair or better, it does not guarantee that the offspring will be free of disease, but they will be less likely to produce this often painful hip deformity. Affected dogs should never be bred, nor should unaffected dogs who produce the abnormality. - Have both parents had their eyes examined yearly by a certified ophthalmologist
This is called a CERF exam. Not only should both parents have had their eyes examined, but all puppies should also have been examined between 6 and 7 weeks of age. Aussies have been known to have a number of eye abnormalities, some of which do not affect the happiness of their lives as pets and some which can. As with hip problems, affected animals should not be bred and animals known to produce eye problems should no longer be bred. - What kind of guarantee does the breeder offer?
Guarantees offered vary from breeder to breeder. There should always be a written contract even when buying a pet puppy. Provisions to cover replacement if inherited problems arise & a guarantee of the puppy's current health are two items which should be covered. - What does the breeder breed for?
To improve the breed & produce the best possible individuals in regard to structure, movement, health, & temperament are points which should be included in the breeder's answer. Some breeders will have developed their lines & breeding program around developing strong working characteristics in their dogs while others may be working toward dogs who excel in agility, conformation, or obedience. No breeder can guarantee 100% that a puppy purchased at an early age will mature into a show animal or have other certain characteristics. Looking at the animals behind the puppy and at other siblings will help determine if this is the dog for you. - Do either of the parents have titles?
Although titles are no guarantee that a dog's offspring will be the world's best, they do show that the breeder has expended the time, effort, & money to prove their dog's worthiness to perpetuate the breed. A Championship on an animal means that it has earned points in the breed ring based on its type, structure, and movement as judged against the ASCA Breed Standard. Initials after a dog's name generally indicate the dog has proven itself in performance competition whether herding, agility, obedience, or other areas. - Has the breeder asked you any questions?
A good breeder who cares about their animals will ask the prospective buyer many questions! They will want to make sure that their dogs are going to the best possible home and that the placement will be a match to last a lifetime. Reputable breeders put an incredible amount of time, research, love and money into producing quality dogs. You can expect part of that to be reflected in the price of their puppies. A reputable breeder, after asking many questions, may tell you that the particular dog you are interested in is not suited to your lifestyle or intentions. This does not reflect on you personally as a dog owner or potential Aussie owner but shows that the breeder is concerned that both their pup and you have a happy life.
Things to Think About Before Breeding Your Aussie
It is extremely important to learn the facts and possible consequences in advance if you are contemplating breeding your dog. The number of unwanted puppies and adult dogs that get put to death in pounds each year is staggering. Millions die homeless & unwanted through starvation, disease, automobiles, abuse, etc. If you decide to breed your dog you are responsible for the puppies created from that breeding. Are you prepared to keep pups that don't sell? Will you carefully screen potential buyers? Will you take back puppies/dogs at any age if they are not fitting into their new home? Have you thought about the expense of making sure the parents & puppies are healthy? Are you willing to turn away potential buyers who may not be right for your puppy? Before deciding to breed your dog we ask that you consider the following points carefully.
- Quality.
Club registration (whether ASCA, AKC, UKC, or any other) is not an indication of quality. The mere fact that a dog is purebred does not mean it should be bred. Breeding should only be done with the goal of improvement of the breed--an honest attempt to produce puppies better than their parents. - Cost.
If done correctly, and by that we mean responsibly, dog breeding is not a money making proposition. Health care, shots, diagnosis of potential problems, proof of quality, food, facilities, etc. are all costly and must be paid before pups can be sold. Unexpected care, cesareans, emergency care for a sick puppy will make a break-even litter become a liability and this is if you can sell the pups. - Sales.
First time breeders have no reputation & no referrals to help them find puppy buyers. Previous promises of "I want a dog just like yours" evaporate. Consider the time & expense of caring for pups that may not sell until they are four months, eight months, or even a year or more old! What would you do if your pups don't sell? Veteran breeders with a good reputation often don't consider breeding unless they have cash deposits in advance for an average sized litter. - Joy of Birth.
If you plan on breeding for the children's education consider renting a nature film instead. Whelping may take place at 3 a.m. or on the vet's operating table. Even if the children are present, they may not be able to handle the problems which can occur. Some bitches are not natural mothers and may ignore or even savage their new pups. Bitches can have whelping problems, some severe, or pups can be born dead or with deformities that require euthanasia. There can be joy in the delivery of a healthy litter with a happy, content mom but if you're not prepared to deal with the emergencies and possibility of tragedy, don't start. - Time.
Veteran breeders of quality dogs state that they will spend over 130 hours of labor raising an average litter. The bitch cannot be left alone while whelping and only for short periods during the first few days afterward. Be prepared for sleepless nights and to take time off from your job. Even after delivery mom will need care and feeding. Puppies need daily checking, weights, and later socialization, grooming, and training. The whelping box will need lots and lots of cleaning to insure a clean place for the pups. There are hours of paperwork, pedigrees, interviewing buyers. More time will be added if you have sick puppies, a bitch that can't or won't care for her litter, or other abnormal conditions.
Breed Standard
Created January 15, 1977: Revised June 01, 2013
INTRODUCTION: First and foremost, the Australian Shepherd is a true working stockdog, and anything that detracts from his usefulness as such is undesirable. The most important breed characteristics are overall moderation in size and bone, balance with correct proportions, and sound movement
GENERAL APPEARANCE: The Australian Shepherd is a well-balanced dog of medium size and bone. He is attentive and animated, showing strength and stamina combined with unusual agility. Slightly longer than tall, he has a coat of moderate length and coarseness with coloring that offers variety and individuality in each specimen. An identifying characteristic is his natural or docked bobtail. In each sex, masculinity or femininity is well defined.
CHARACTER: The Australian Shepherd is primarily a working dog of strong herding and guardian instincts. He is an intelligent, exceptional companion. He is versatile and easily trained: performing his assigned tasks with great style and enthusiasm. He is reserved with strangers but does not exhibit shyness. This unusually versatile stockdog works with the power and quickness to control difficult cattle as well as the ability to move sheep without unnecessary roughness. Although an aggressive, authoritative worker, viciousness toward people or animals is intolerable.
HEAD: The head is clean-cut, strong, dry, and in proportion to the body. The topskull is flat to slightly rounded; its length and width each equal to the length of the muzzle. The muzzle is of medium width and depth and tapers gradually to a rounded tip, without appearing heavy or snipey. Lips are close fitting, meeting at the mouthline. The toplines of the muzzle and topskull appear close to parallel. The stop is moderate but well defined.
1. TEETH: A full complement of strong white teeth meet in a scissors bite. A level bite is a fault. Teeth broken or missing by accident are not penalized. All other missing teeth should be faulted to the degree that they deviate from a full complement of 42 teeth.
Disqualifications: Undershot bite, Overshot bite, Wry Mouth.
1. EYES: The eyes are very expressive, showing attentiveness and intelligence. They are clear, almond-shaped, of moderate size, and set a little obliquely, neither prominent nor sunken. The pupils are dark, well defined, and perfectly positioned. Eye color is brown, blue, amber; or any variation or combination, including flecks and marbling. All eye colors are acceptable in combination with all coat colors.
Faults: Any deviation from almond-shaped eyes.
1. EARS: The ears are set high on the side of the head, are triangular, of moderate size and slightly rounded at the tip. The tip of the ear reaches to, but not further than, the inside corner of the nearest eye. At full attention, the ears should lift from one-quarter (1/4) to one-half (1/2) above the base and break forward or slightly to the side.
Severe Faults: Prick ears; overly large ears; low set ears with no lift from the base.
NECK AND BODY: The neck is firm, clean, and in proportion to the body. It is of medium length and slightly arched at the crest, setting well into the shoulders. The body is firm and muscular. The topline appears level at a natural four-square stance. The bottom line carries well back with a moderate tuck-up. The chest is deep and strong with ribs well sprung. The loin is strong and broad when viewed from the top. The croup is moderately sloping. The Tail is straight, not to exceed four (4) inches, natural bobtail or docked.
FOREQUARTERS: The shoulder blades (scapula) are well laid back, with the upper arm (humerus) slightly longer than the shoulder blade. Both the upper arm and shoulder blade are well muscled. The forelegs are straight and strong, perpendicular to the ground, with moderate bone. The point of the elbow is set under the withers and is equidistant from the withers to the ground. Pasterns are short, thick, and strong, but still flexible, showing a slight angle when viewed from the side. Feet are oval shaped, compact, with close knit, well-arched toes. Pads are thick and resilient; nails short and strong. Dewclaws may be removed.
HINDQUARTERS: Width of hindquarters is approximately equal to the width of the forequarters at the shoulder. The angulation of the pelvis and upper thigh (femur) corresponds to the angulation of the shoulder blade and upper arm. The upper and lower thigh are well muscled. Stifles are clearly defined; hock joints moderately bent. The metatarsi are short, perpendicular to the ground, and parallel to each other when viewed from the rear. Feet are oval shaped, compact, with close-knit, well-arched toes. Pads are thick and resilient; nails short and strong. Rear dewclaws are removed.
COAT: The coat is of medium length and texture, straight to slightly wavy, and weather resistant. The undercoat varies in quantity with climate. Hair is short and smooth on the head, outside of ears, front of forelegs, and below the hocks. Backs of forelegs are moderately feathered and breeches are moderately full. There is a moderate mane, more pronounced in dogs than bitches. The Australian Shepherd is a working dog and is to be shown with a natural coat.
Severe Faults: Non-typical coats such as excessively long; overabundant/profuse; wiry; or curly.
COLOR: All colors are strong, clear and rich. The recognized colors are blue merle, red (liver) merle, solid black, and solid red (liver) all with or without white markings and/or tan (copper) points with no order of preference. The blue merle and black have black pigmentation on nose, lips and eye-rims. Reds and red merles have liver pigmentation on nose, lips and eye rims. Butterfly nose should not be faulted under one year of age. On all colors the areas surrounding the ears and eyes are dominated by color other than white. The hairline of a white collar does not exceed the point at the withers.
Disqualifications: Other than recognized colors. White body splashes. Dudley nose.
GAIT: Smooth, free, and easy, exhibiting agility of movement with a well-balanced natural stride. As speed increases, both front and rear feet converge equally toward the centerline of gravity beneath the body. The top line remains firm and level. When viewed from the side the trot is effortless, exhibiting facility of movement rather than a hard driving action. Exaggerated reach and drive at the trot are not desirable. Gait faults shall be penalized according to the degree of deviation from the ideal.
SIZE: Preferred height at the withers for males is 20 to 23 inches; that for females is 18 to 21 inches, however, quality is not to be sacrificed in favor of size.
Other Disqualifications: Monorchidism and cryptorchidism.
Visit ASCA.ORG for more information!
INTRODUCTION: First and foremost, the Australian Shepherd is a true working stockdog, and anything that detracts from his usefulness as such is undesirable. The most important breed characteristics are overall moderation in size and bone, balance with correct proportions, and sound movement
GENERAL APPEARANCE: The Australian Shepherd is a well-balanced dog of medium size and bone. He is attentive and animated, showing strength and stamina combined with unusual agility. Slightly longer than tall, he has a coat of moderate length and coarseness with coloring that offers variety and individuality in each specimen. An identifying characteristic is his natural or docked bobtail. In each sex, masculinity or femininity is well defined.
CHARACTER: The Australian Shepherd is primarily a working dog of strong herding and guardian instincts. He is an intelligent, exceptional companion. He is versatile and easily trained: performing his assigned tasks with great style and enthusiasm. He is reserved with strangers but does not exhibit shyness. This unusually versatile stockdog works with the power and quickness to control difficult cattle as well as the ability to move sheep without unnecessary roughness. Although an aggressive, authoritative worker, viciousness toward people or animals is intolerable.
HEAD: The head is clean-cut, strong, dry, and in proportion to the body. The topskull is flat to slightly rounded; its length and width each equal to the length of the muzzle. The muzzle is of medium width and depth and tapers gradually to a rounded tip, without appearing heavy or snipey. Lips are close fitting, meeting at the mouthline. The toplines of the muzzle and topskull appear close to parallel. The stop is moderate but well defined.
1. TEETH: A full complement of strong white teeth meet in a scissors bite. A level bite is a fault. Teeth broken or missing by accident are not penalized. All other missing teeth should be faulted to the degree that they deviate from a full complement of 42 teeth.
Disqualifications: Undershot bite, Overshot bite, Wry Mouth.
1. EYES: The eyes are very expressive, showing attentiveness and intelligence. They are clear, almond-shaped, of moderate size, and set a little obliquely, neither prominent nor sunken. The pupils are dark, well defined, and perfectly positioned. Eye color is brown, blue, amber; or any variation or combination, including flecks and marbling. All eye colors are acceptable in combination with all coat colors.
Faults: Any deviation from almond-shaped eyes.
1. EARS: The ears are set high on the side of the head, are triangular, of moderate size and slightly rounded at the tip. The tip of the ear reaches to, but not further than, the inside corner of the nearest eye. At full attention, the ears should lift from one-quarter (1/4) to one-half (1/2) above the base and break forward or slightly to the side.
Severe Faults: Prick ears; overly large ears; low set ears with no lift from the base.
NECK AND BODY: The neck is firm, clean, and in proportion to the body. It is of medium length and slightly arched at the crest, setting well into the shoulders. The body is firm and muscular. The topline appears level at a natural four-square stance. The bottom line carries well back with a moderate tuck-up. The chest is deep and strong with ribs well sprung. The loin is strong and broad when viewed from the top. The croup is moderately sloping. The Tail is straight, not to exceed four (4) inches, natural bobtail or docked.
FOREQUARTERS: The shoulder blades (scapula) are well laid back, with the upper arm (humerus) slightly longer than the shoulder blade. Both the upper arm and shoulder blade are well muscled. The forelegs are straight and strong, perpendicular to the ground, with moderate bone. The point of the elbow is set under the withers and is equidistant from the withers to the ground. Pasterns are short, thick, and strong, but still flexible, showing a slight angle when viewed from the side. Feet are oval shaped, compact, with close knit, well-arched toes. Pads are thick and resilient; nails short and strong. Dewclaws may be removed.
HINDQUARTERS: Width of hindquarters is approximately equal to the width of the forequarters at the shoulder. The angulation of the pelvis and upper thigh (femur) corresponds to the angulation of the shoulder blade and upper arm. The upper and lower thigh are well muscled. Stifles are clearly defined; hock joints moderately bent. The metatarsi are short, perpendicular to the ground, and parallel to each other when viewed from the rear. Feet are oval shaped, compact, with close-knit, well-arched toes. Pads are thick and resilient; nails short and strong. Rear dewclaws are removed.
COAT: The coat is of medium length and texture, straight to slightly wavy, and weather resistant. The undercoat varies in quantity with climate. Hair is short and smooth on the head, outside of ears, front of forelegs, and below the hocks. Backs of forelegs are moderately feathered and breeches are moderately full. There is a moderate mane, more pronounced in dogs than bitches. The Australian Shepherd is a working dog and is to be shown with a natural coat.
Severe Faults: Non-typical coats such as excessively long; overabundant/profuse; wiry; or curly.
COLOR: All colors are strong, clear and rich. The recognized colors are blue merle, red (liver) merle, solid black, and solid red (liver) all with or without white markings and/or tan (copper) points with no order of preference. The blue merle and black have black pigmentation on nose, lips and eye-rims. Reds and red merles have liver pigmentation on nose, lips and eye rims. Butterfly nose should not be faulted under one year of age. On all colors the areas surrounding the ears and eyes are dominated by color other than white. The hairline of a white collar does not exceed the point at the withers.
Disqualifications: Other than recognized colors. White body splashes. Dudley nose.
GAIT: Smooth, free, and easy, exhibiting agility of movement with a well-balanced natural stride. As speed increases, both front and rear feet converge equally toward the centerline of gravity beneath the body. The top line remains firm and level. When viewed from the side the trot is effortless, exhibiting facility of movement rather than a hard driving action. Exaggerated reach and drive at the trot are not desirable. Gait faults shall be penalized according to the degree of deviation from the ideal.
SIZE: Preferred height at the withers for males is 20 to 23 inches; that for females is 18 to 21 inches, however, quality is not to be sacrificed in favor of size.
Other Disqualifications: Monorchidism and cryptorchidism.
Visit ASCA.ORG for more information!